Your First Aquarium

Commitment
Where Do I Start?
Tank Placement
Tank Size
Tank Style
Lighting Equipment
Heating Equipment
Filtering Equipment
Substrate
Tank Decorations
Complete List of Items You'll Need

Commitment

Setting up an aquarium requires a commitment to maintain a healthy environment for your fish and a willingness to follow some general guidelines for successful fishkeeping. Maintenance of an aquarium involves establishing routines for daily and weekly tasks such as feeding and tank cleaning. The single most important factor in maintaining healthy fish is performing regular water changes. If you don't think you'll like being up to your elbows in aquarium water siphoning out fish waste every week, the aquarium hobby may not be for you. If, however, you don't mind getting a little wet and committing yourself to keeping your aquarium clean, the hobby rewards its devotees in multiples of ten. A glimmering aquarium where active fish swim about as though in their natural environment is a sight to behold.

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Where Do I Start?

There are three great places to start learning about the aquarium hobby -- four if you count learning from a friend who's an enthusiast!

• Magazines - There are a couple great aquarium magazines for the hobbyist: Tropical Fish Hobbyist and Aquarium USA. Believe it or not, the advertisements in these magazines will be the most helpful at this juncture, for they'll help you better understand the products on the market and help you recognize what you need when you go shopping at the LFS.



• Websites - Take advantage of the Internet and let one site lead to another. Sites dedicated to the aquarium hobby range from hobbyist's homepages to comprehensive resources and species libraries. One word of caution, however. Don't believe everything you read. If you're in doubt, try to find another site that confirms or restates the point in question. This site has a list of resource links on the left navigational bar on each page. Fishprofiles.com is one of the best places on the Web where enthusiasts gather to exchange information and share their discoveries. It has a very active forum that's well organized and moderated. Explore and have fun!



• Your Local Fish Shop - Visit several shops in your area to get a feel for what's available locally. Read product labels of water conditioners, test kits and food to develop some familiarity for current products on the market. Talk with employees as they go about their business of maintaining tanks and helping customers. You'll be surprised at how much you can learn just by browsing, eavesdropping and asking questions.

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Tank Placement

One of the first orders of business is to decide where you want your aquarium to live. Keep in mind that a gallon of water weighs about 8 lbs. A full 15-gallon tank with gravel will be well over 120 lbs -- impractical to move just to see how it looks over there in that other corner! Test different locations before you fill it with water. Other location considerations should include the following:

• Temperature - It's best to keep the tank away from areas with significant temperature fluctuations. Even though your tank will regulate its temperature with a heater, it's not possible to cool a tank if it's in a location prone to heating up.



• Light - It's best to keep the tank away from direct sun, for the high intensity rays magnified by glass may cause heating and promote algae growth.



• Traffic - It's best to keep the tank away from heavily-trafficked areas such as a doorway or hallway. This is not to say that fish cannot tolerate such an environment, for they certainly see a great deal of foot traffic in the fish shop. But for best results, your aquarium should be placed away from busy areas where you can kick back and enjoy the view without interruption.



• Power Source - You'll need a nearby power source for at least 3 cords -- one for the filter, one for the heater and one for the lighting equipment.

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Tank Size

What size tank should you get? Tank size should only be restricted by your budget and your space. Tank maintenance difficulty does not increase significantly as you move up in water volume. In fact, once established, the frequency of maintenance may be less than that of a much smaller tank. You can have larger fish in a larger tank, or you can have a greater variety of smaller fish. Larger tanks provide the hobbyist with more options and potential for a more stable environment than a smaller tank. On the other hand, a smaller tank of 15 - 20 gallons can afford a lifetime of enjoyment and requires very little space.

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Tank Style

There are a multitude of tank styles available. If you don't have a sturdy piece of furniture on which to place your aquarium, you may want to consider purchasing a stand or a tank and cabinet package. Remember, water is very heavy, so you'll want to make sure your aquarium has a sturdy foundation. A platform that is not level or allows rocking or shifting may compromise the structure of an all-glass aquarium and could cause leaks. Shop around and see what's available -- either at your LFS or online. Then determine what your wallet will allow and what will fit best into your environment.

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Lighting Equipment

Many aquarium tanks come in a package that is sold along with an integrated hood. An integrated hood includes a full cover with a hinged lift panel and a built in fluorescent tube or tubes. I would recommend getting a full hood because it prevents contaminants from getting into the tank, it reduces evaporation and it keeps fish that tend to take flying leaps such as Hatchet Fish and Swordtails from meeting an early and dry demise. In order for you to get the full enjoyment out of your tank, you'll want to properly illuminate it. Some aquarists make their own more cost-effective lighting equipment by purchasing materials at a hardware store and fashioning a hood out of wood, metal, plastic or plexiglas.

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Heating Equipment

I know what you're thinking. You live in a warm climate or your house is always heated during the winter so why should you waste good money on a heater that's not needed. I live in the Midwest and my house is heated to at least 72 degrees fahrenheit, but I always marvel at how many times I glance toward my aquarium and see the silent little orange light, indicating that the heater is engaged. The importance of the heater is that it protects against the possibility of sudden dips in termperature and maintains a consistent minimum temperature at all times. Now, the hot summer months are another matter. I'm not aware of a cooling device for aquariums, but most fish can tolerate gradually warming waters as long as the water quality is good. You'll also want to purchase a thermometer for your tank so that you can monitor the temperature. The adhesive liquid crystal design that attaches to the exterior surface of your tank is convenient and unobtrusive.

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Filtering Equipment

Filtration can be a complicated topic, so I'll keep it simple since you're just starting out. You will need a mechanical filter of some type to aid in removing uneaten food and fish waste, and to provide aeration. Most external filters use dual filtering agents such as a sponge and carbon cartridge. If you are purchasing a medium-sized aquarium somewhere between 15 and 29 gallons, I would recommend an external power filter that attaches to the back of your aquarium and has an uptake tube that transmits water from your tank through the filtering agents and back into your tank. When I first set up my tank in 1982 I purchased a Hagen Aquaclear 200. It is a convenient, cost-effective and fairly quiet device that has provided more than adequate filtration and aeration for my 15-gallon tank. And I'm proud to say that 20 years later it's still going strong. I fully endorse the Hagen Aquaclear line of products. Petsmart offers a more complete explanation of mechanical filtration.

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Substrate

You will need to purchase a few bags of substrate, or gravel for the bottom of your aquarium. Some aquarists use sand, but I don't feel this allows for good air circulation and the development of effective biological filtration in a freshwater aquarium (saltwater aquariums are another matter entirely). The gravel not only will become home to millions of beneficial bacteria, it will also provide anchoring for your plants (plastic to begin with) and contribute to the overall natural appearance of your aquarium environment. Smaller grained gravel is preferred over the larger, pea-sized gravel as it prevents large particles of uneaten food from becoming trapped. The smaller gravel is also easier to clean with a siphon tube.

Now, the next question is what color should you purchase? It's really up to you. My recommendation would be that you stay away from the bright neon colors as it creates an unnatural-looking environment in which the fish are less likely to feel comfortable. Although I'll admit that when I first set up my tank, I started with yellow, orange and pink gravel. It didn't last long. Now I have natural colored gravel that, well, looks more natural!

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Tank Decorations

The most important thing to consider when deciding what decorations to include in your freshwater aquascape is whether they will be safe for the fish. You don't want to introduce any toxins into the water or alter the tank's acceptable or required PH levels. Rocks or shells containing lime should not be used, as this mineral will leach out over time and make your water too alkaline. You should also avoid found objects such as driftwood or branches, as these items may cause your water to become too acidic as the wood fiber begins to break down. If you have a rock that you feel is a necessary component of your aquascape, test its alkalinity first by placing it in a bucket of neutral PH water and measure the water's PH prior to its introduction and then one week later. If there is no change, the rock is probably acceptable to use. The best advice I can give you regarding tank decorations is to purchase "guaranteed safe" items at your LFS. One of my favorite and most natural looking items is a piece of driftwood attached to a slate anchor. The driftwood is mechanically dried in order to remove harmful acids. Your LFS should carry a selection of these, as well as slate and tufta rock and petrified wood with which you can create caves and bridges for your fish to play in and around.

The most important of all your tank decorations is your plants. While many serious aquarists scoff at what they call "fake" plants, I highly endorse artificial plants -- especially for the beginner. Many of the artificial plants on the market today closely approximate the natural coloration, texture, shape and growth pattern of live plants and come with a convenient anchor that slips beneath the gravel and provides firm support. Over time, your plants will even develop a light bit of algae here and there, enhancing their realistic appearance. The key benefit of artificial plants is that they have no light or nutrient requirements and will allow you to focus on maintaining your water quality and enjoying your fish. Once your tank gets established and your biological filtration is effective, you can think about adding live plants if you'd like. Healthy and vigorous plants can contribute to a beneficial and balanced aquatic environment and add to the natural beauty of your tank.

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Complete List of Items You'll Need

There are a number of items that you should purchase prior to setting up your tank. While the list seems long, don't become overwhelmed, for many of these items will never need to be purchased again. You can use the comprehensive list below as a checklist while shopping.

• Aquarium - Buy the largest you can accommodate and afford! I prefer the standard glass aquariums built with 4 glass panels and a glass bottom with a plastic band at the top and around the base to provide extra stability. The top band effectively hides the water line and aids in the attachment of an external power filter and heater. Many of these aquariums are sold with a lighting hood that fits tightly over the rim of the tank.
• Lighting Fixture - This may be sold as part of an integrated hood design or purchased separately. If you are handy, you can also construct your own out of inexpensive materials available at your local hardware store.
• Power Filter - I recommend this type of filter for aquariums up to 29 gallons. They are convenient to use and offer the dual filtering and aeration action. Make sure that you purchase one that is recommended for your tank capacity. If it's too lightweight, you compromise both filtering power and aeration effectiveness. If it's too heavy-duty, you may be overwhelming your fish with a continual waterfall that they will tend to shy away after being unwittingly swept into the undertow!
• Filter Inserts - Your power filter may come with an initial set of filter inserts. If not, you'll need to purchase them separately. You'll need two inserts - one insert is a fine-grained sponge that removes particle waste (uneaten bits of food and fish excrement) and the other insert is a mesh bag containing small bits of carbon that helps remove impurities such as ammonia and maintain optimal PH levels. Learn more about filter maintenance on the Aquarium Maintenance page.
• Heater - A fairly simple device that will enable you to maintain an optimal minimum water temperature. Purchase the appropriate size for your tank. Too short and its temperature sensor will not measure the mid to lower levels of the tank. Too long and it will be buried in the aquarium gravel.
• LCD Thermometer - I recommend the LCD adhesive external type thermometer over the type that you hang inside your tank. After all, why add one more unnatural device to your aquascape if you don't need to?
• Gravel - I recommend natural colored small- to medium-grained gravel available at your LFS. How much gravel will you need? About 1.5 - 2 inches - a little more if you are going to operate an under gravel filter. Estimate needing about a pound and a half per gallon of water. A 25lb. bag will cost around $13.
• Tank Decorations - Purchase decorations designed and sold for aquarium use. You may want to begin gradually, adding more items as you experiment with what looks good and what your fish require to be happy.
• Artificial Plants - These are sold in various heights so that you can create an aquascape that is natural looking and allows for optimal viewing. Repeating a specific plant type here and there in tall and shorter sizes helps to create a realistic aquascape. Select what pleases you, experiment with different plant types and have fun with this aspect of fishkeeping.
• Two Pails - You'll need two pails - one for removing dirty water and one for adding and conditioning clean water. Your dirty water pail can be considerably larger than your clean water pail. I use a one-gallon pail for the clean water and a 5-gallon pail for the dirty water. The dirty water pail is larger because I remove dirty water all at once, but I add clean water gradually, gallon by gallon. Your clean water pail should never be used for anything other than clean water. Never use soap or other chemicals in this pail.
• Algae Sponge Scrubber - It's probably best to purchase your sponge from your LFS, as sponges sold in the grocery store for kitchen purposes may be impregnated with detergents. I like using the "Aquarium Algae Cleaner Pad" distributed by Blue Ribbon Products. This little square sponge has a more abrasive red coating on one side that effectively removes algae with little effort. I don't like algae scrapers with an integrated handle, thank you. I'd rather stick my arm in the water and be better able to access all the little nooks and crannies. If your tank is really tall, a handled scraper may be helpful.
• Gravel Vacuum - This is an indispensable tool for cleaning your aquarium. It consists of an open cylindrical tube head composed of hard plastic attached at one end to a 2 - 3 foot length of flexible plastic tubing. You'll use this tool to siphon out dirty water and to remove debris and algae from your gravel. The larger the tube head, the quicker it will remove water. This is an important consideration. If you tank is quite small, you won't want such a broad tube head, for you won't be able to make your way through all the gravel before it has removed too much water. If your tank is quite large, you'll want a tube head of sufficient size to remove gravel waste efficiently. Read the packaging for guidance or ask for assistance if you need it. Learn more about cleaning your aquarium on the Aquarium Maintenance page.
• Background "Wallpaper" - If your aquarium will be placed against a backdrop such as a wall, you'll want to address the back panel of your tank. For a natural looking background that will effectively hide power cords and other distracting objects, I recommend the background papers specifically designed for aquascaping and sold at your LFS. These are imprinted on one side with an underwater aquascape, helping to extend the perceived depth of your aquarium from front to back. Make sure you purchase a freshwater aquascape for a freshwater aquarium, as a marine aquascape will certainly result in an aesthetic clash with your freshwater tank! If cost is an issue, you can also use leftover gift-wrapping paper or other wallpaper that suits your taste. I wouldn't recommend painting the back of the tank, as this leaves you little room for changing your mind later!
• Net - You'll need a net right away in order to transfer your new fish from their shipping bag to their new home. I prefer to use a small net made of white silky material designed for use with brine shrimp. This net is small enough to insert into the shipping bag and is smoother than the coarse green nets, eliminating the possible abrasion that occurs when netting a fish and transferring fish from one container to another.
• Water Conditioner - You'll need water conditioner to remove the harmful chemicals and gases that are often found in municipal water such as chlorine, ammonia, chloramine and fluoride. Some of these water conditioners also contain a mucous-like substance designed to replicate the natural slime coat existing on the bodies of fishes. This is thought to aid in reducing the chance of infection that may accompany the skin abrasion sometimes occurring in transportation. I highly recommend Kordon's Novaqua and Amquel and use a combination of these with each water change.
• PH Test Kit - You'll need to monitor the water in your new tank as well as test any new water you add to your tank. While many freshwater tropical fish have specific PH levels at which they do best, you'll want to strive for maintaining a neutral PH level to start with. A PH test kit is comprised of a small vial, PH test solution and a color-coded strip to use as a guide for comparing your tested water with the various increments in PH level. I recommend Wardley's or Aquarium Pharmaceuticals' PH test kits for convenience and accuracy.
• Ammonia Test Kit - While I'll admit I never had one of these until lately and acknowledge that you could probably get along without one, I believe it is important to monitor the ammonia levels in your tank. Ammonia will be initially more difficult to control than it will be once your biological filter is established. An ammonia test kit is comprised of a small vial, test solution and a color-coded strip to use as a guide for comparing your tested water with the various increments in ammonia level. I recommend Aquarium Pharmaceuticals' Ammonia test kits for convenience and accuracy.
• PH Adjuster - You'll need two different PH adjusters - one to increase the PH level and one to lower the PH level. A PH adjuster is a concentrated, highly acidic or alkaline fluid sold in small bottles that release one drop at a time. You'll use this to adjust new water added each time you do a water change so that the new water is the same PH level as that of your tank, and you may use it to adjust the PH level in the tank gradually over time or simply to help maintain its consistency. I recommend Aquarium Pharmaceuticals' PH Up and PH Down.
• Clean Lint-Free Towels - as an aquarist, your arms will often be elbow deep in aquarium water. Given this fact, you'll need a couple handy towels to dry off with and for setting out wet items when cleaning your aquarium. It's critical that these towels are detergent and lint free. Whatever old towels you select, wash them out in fresh water and line dry before using. This will allow any residual detergents and loose lint or fibers to work free from the fabric. You can use your designated "fish towels" repeatedly, washing them out again after every three or four uses to maintain freshness.
• Fish Food - There has been a significant increase in the variety and manufactures of fish food on the market in the last 10 years or so. Some of the longest-standing brands are still the best, however, and you can't beat Tetra Min Flake food for complete nutrition. My fish have always eagerly taken these flakes, and if there is any uneaten food that makes its way to the bottom of the tank and remains uneaten, it will not cloud your water. However, I do like to supplement Tetra Min flakes with some variety of treat such as freeze-dried bloodworms, tubifex worms or brine shrimp. Serious aquarists also recommend an occasional feeding of frozen or live foods. San Francisco Bay Brand frozen brine shrimp and frozen bloodworms are packaged in convenient single-serving multi-packs. Learn more about feeding your fish on the Your New Fish page.
• Fish - You should not purchase any fish until your tank is all set up and running for a few days. I know it will be almost impossible to wait, but this will allow your water to age a bit and give you a chance to monitor water quality, temperature, and filtration function. Before going out to purchase fish, make sure your tank water is at or near neutral alkalinity. More detail on purchasing fish appears on the Your New Fish page.

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